Bhutan and Kaziranga in 2018: Himalayan Monals, Satyr Tragopan and 420 bird species

A Tropical Birding Tours Set Departure Tour

BHUTAN Includes pre-tour Kaziranga Extension (Northeast India)

28th March – 24th April 2018

Himalayan Monals were seen on several memorable occasions in the high Himalayas and (after views like these) were unsurprisingly voted as one of the BIRDS OF THE TOUR

Tour leader: Jose Illanes Report and Photos: Jose Illanes

INTRODUCTION

Our trip began in the lowlands of Assam in Northeast India, at World famous Kaziranga National Park. A bounty of species came our way, including some scarce species like Pallas’s Fish-Eagle, Blossom-headed Parakeet, Swamp Francolin, Pied Harrier, Greater Adjutant (near Guwahati), Ferruginous Duck, Spot-billed Pelican, Northern Lapwing and a day- roosting Brown Fish-Owl. Besides the birds this park was excellent for large animals, and we also observed many Indian Rhinoceros during our jeep drives in the park.

Our next stop was Manas National Park another beautiful reserve, which held some rare grassland specialties, which have all suffered significant declines in recent years, like Black-breasted Parrotbill, Indian Grassbird, Slender-billed and Jerdon´s Babblers, and Bengal Florican. Blue-bearded Bee-eater and Silver-breasted Broadbills were further highlights in the wooded areas of Manas, while large fauna also featured there too, with conspicuous Asian Elephants.

Our birding in Bhutan started just across the border from India, at Samdrup Jongkhar, where we got Black-backed Forktail. On the way to Narphung La we were able to add some real crackers like Beautiful Nuthatch and Silver-eared Mesia. On the longest drive from Narphung La to Lingmethang we found Himalayan Cutia, Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, and Ward´s Trogon. Our four day stay in this Lingmethang Valley based at Yongkha La we birded in the surroundings areas including Phrumsengla National Park, where the road cuts through the forest and gave us the chance to pick up Rufous- necked Hornbill, Black-tailed Crake and a suite of laughingthrushes, including White-crested, Rufous-chinned and Rufous-necked Laughingthrushes (below); we also saw Coral-billed Scimitar-Babbler in this area too.

Higher up, in Sengor one of the birds of the tour was found in Satyr Tragopan, and Blood Pheasant was found on the way to Jakar too. Heading to Trongsa from there, we found Ibisbill along the way, and Himalayan Monals also featured at Trongsa too, as did Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird.

Our stay in the Tingtibi Valley produced Red-headed Trogon, Blue-winged Laughingthrush, Red-faced Liocichla, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, White-browed Piculet, Slaty-backed Forktail, and the rare vulnerable species White-bellied Heron along the River.

On our next journey, to Probjikha, we added yet more interesting birds like Black-browed Tit, and Spotted Laughingthrush. After a last night camping in the mountains, we birded the Probjikha Valley, and saw Brown Parrotbill, and Dark-rumped Rosefinch. On the way down from there to Punakha we managed to find the scarce Yellow-bellied Flowerpecker too. Next up, we visited the subtropical forests in Jigme Dorji National Park giving us Rusty-cheeked Scimitar-Babbler, Slaty-bellied Tesia, and Slender-billed Oriole. After our stay in a lovely hotel at Punakha we headed towards Thimphu with some quick birding at the Botanical Garden along the main highway, where we found Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Brown Bullfinch, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush, and Darjeeling Woodpecker. On the same day we also visited Dochu La Pass, where we noticed not only an abundance of Rhododendron flowers, but also the outstanding Fire-tailed Myzornis feeding among them.

Once in Thimphu we visited another entrance to Jigme Dorji National Park, which brought us Fire-capped Tit, Green Shrike Babbler, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker and Spotted Forktail. The following day we drove to Chele La Pass, where we saw both Collared and White-winged Grosbeaks and another beautiful view of Himalayan Monal. Based in Paro on our final day, this was a more relaxing, “cultural day”, as we visited the world-famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery, however we did find a Solitary Snipe (below) on the trail beside the monastery for a memorable finish to an exciting tour in a country like absolutely no other.

TOUR SUMMARY

March 29: Guwahati to Kaziranga (INDIA). We all met up at a hotel in Guwahati the night before, and started by visiting the local rubbish dump! This was entirely strategic though, as we were able to observe the massive Greater Adjutant (right) stork competing with people and Black Kites for the prize garbage. The stork is critically endangered and this is the best site in the world to see them.

After such an experience, we headed up towards Kaziranga National Park, taking an afternoon jeep drive into the Western Ranges of the park after lunch. We quickly picked up species like our first “Indochinese” Indian Roller (an imminent split), Red-breasted and Alexandrine Parakeets, Rufous Treepie, Chinese (White-tailed) Rubythroat, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon, Chestnut-tailed and Asian Pied Starlings, Black-hooded Oriole; most significantly we also found our first Pallas’s Fish- Eagle a declining species that was a major target in the park. Of course, Kaziranga is more than just birds, as it is home to many large mammals too, and we tucked into Indian Rhinoceros, Wild Boar, and both Hog and Swamp Deer during the afternoon.

March 30: Kaziranga (INDIA). We started the day by birding outside Kazirahga National Park, where a tea plantation provides good birding in its own right. This was extremely productive with Long-tailed and Scarlet Minivets, Jungle, Common Hill and Great Mynas, Scarlet-backed Flowerpecker, and Crimson Sunbird; we also had great looks of Oriental Pied and Great Hornbills calling and displaying, Green-billed Malkoha, Black-winged Cuckooshrike, a bunch of Verditer Flycatchers, Greater Racket-tailed Drongo, Golden-fronted Leafbird, Jerdon’s Baza, Asian Barred Owlet and four different barbets, Blue- throated, Lineated, Blue-eared and Coppersmith Barbet. Later in the morning, we went inside the park, but this time to the Eastern Ranges, that allowed us to find Brown and Gray-backed Shrikes, Plain Martin, Spotted Owlet and Lesser Adjutant on the drive to the entrance gate. Photos Next Page: Top-Classic Kaziranga, Indian Rhinoceros; “Indochinese” Roller an imminent split from Indian

Once inside the park, driving through woodland, we were able to spot Greater (Goldenback) Flameback, Chestnut-headed, Green and Blue-throated Bee-Eaters, soaring and perched Crested Serpent-Eagles, and Changeable Hawk-Eagle, as well as one or two flying Himalayan Griffons. Deeper inside the woods, we were shown a roosting Brown Fish-Owl (below) known to the local guide and driver. Birding in the many wet areas too gave us Gray-headed Fish Eagle and Greater Spotted Eagle, in addition to Purple Heron, Gray-headed and Northern Lapwings, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Cotton Pygmy and Bar-headed Goose, Black-headed Ibis and Black-necked Stork. New mammals also came in the form of Wild Water Buffalo and Smooth-coated Otter.

After lunch, we returned to the park, but this time to the Central Ranges. The afternoon’s birding produced Purple Heron, Gray-headed and Northern Lapwings, Bronze-winged and Pheasant-tailed Jacanas, Cotton Pygmy-Goose and Bar- headed Goose, Black-headed Ibis and Black-necked Stork. A small patch of woodland yielded Puff-throated and Abbot’s Babblers, Dusky Warbler and Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, and a few Red Junglefowl.

Later on, driving within grassland habitat we had brief views of both Greater and Lesser Coucals, Striated Grassbird and Striated Babbler, although the standout find was the rare Yellow (Finn’s) Weaver. While watching Spot-billed Pelican by a pond, we also spotted Hen and Pied Harriers on the wing. Our perseverance paid off late on with a major avian target at Kaziranga, when we located several Swamp Francolins.

March 31: Kaziranga to Manas (INDIA). This was mostly a long driving day as we transferred between the parks of Kaziranga and Manas, passing through Guwahati on the way. We did start the day with some short birding around the Kaziranga hotel, where we did find a Yellow- vented Flowerpecker. Oriental Magpie Robin, White-breasted Waterhen, Citrine Wagtail, Paddyfield Pipit and Pintail Snipe were also observed in the surrounding rice fields. Other birds seen that day included Greater and Lesser Adjutants, Bronze-winged Jacana, Red- wattled Lapwing, and the omnipresent White- throated Kingfisher. Eventually, we reached the Smiling Tusker Camp in Manas and did some late afternoon birding in that area, finding Streak- throated Woodpecker, Hair-crested Drongo, Alexandrine Parakeet, Yellow-footed Green Pigeon and Asian Koel.

April 1: Manas National Park (INDIA). We started the day by driving out to the Kuribill Range in Manas National Park, finding Jungle Babbler, Northern Goshawk, Streak-throated Woodpecker and yet more Red Junglefowls. Once inside the park, we began to see a number of male Indian Peafowl (above) displaying on the road, and an Indian Thick-knee in the same area. Our central goal for the morning was to track down the critically endangered Bengal Florican, for which Manas is one of the best sites in the world, and while passing through woodland on the way there we found Rufous and Fulvous-breasted Woodpeckers, Rufous-necked Laughingthrush and Bronzed Drongo. Once at the florican site, it did not take long for us to find at least three Bengal Floricans. Other grassland birds found in the same area included Slender-billed and Chestnut-capped Babblers, and Plain, Ashy and Gray-breasted Prinias.

Other species recorded in Kaziranga that day included, Black-naped Monarch, Orange-fronted Leafbird, Plain Flowerpecker, Siberian Stonechat, Gray-capped Pygmy Woodpecker, Plaintive Cuckoo, and Stork-billed Kingfisher After lunch, we went to bird from another park entrance (Tinmile Range), along the edge of the Brahmaputra River, where we saw Small Pratincole, River Lapwing, Black Stork, Pin-tailed and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, White-rumped Shama, Dollarbird, Pale-chinned Flycatcher, Asian Emerald Dove, and Streaked-throated Woodpecker. However, the three standouts from this afternoon fell to Silver-breasted and Long-tailed Broadbills, and our first Kalij Pheasant. Also, beside the birds today we had some mammals like Barking Dear, Capped Langur, Wild Boar, Gaur and Asian Elephant on many different occasions. We also stayed a little late to ensure we found a Large-tailed Nightjar too for the birdlist.

April 2: Manas (INDIA) to Samdrup Jongkhar (BHUTAN). We started the day by birding another entrance to Manas (the Bhuyapara Range), finding Black Francolin which flew right up in front of us, and another Bengal Florican. We also targeted the local Black-breasted Parrotbill and Jerdon’s Babbler, which proved difficult, but we all got them in the end. By now, as we’d seen our primary target species, we returned to camp for an early lunch and then departed for the India-Bhutan border, seeing Yellow-eyed Babbler on the way. Once we reached the border we met with those who had not joined the extension in Northeast India, and went through entrance formalities. After meeting with our local Bhutanese guide, Yeshey, and checking into our hotel in Samdrup Jongkhar, we set out birding near town. Around there we found Bay Woodpecker, Puff-throated Babbler, Blue Whistling-Thrush, Asian Barred Owlet, White-throated Bulbul, Crimson Sunbird, Pin-striped Tit-Babbler and along the river, Common Kingfisher and Striated Heron. After such a long journey, and tasting the delicious Bhutanese national dish “Ema Datchi” it was time for bed.

April 3: Samdrup Jongkhar to Narphung La (BHUTAN). We awoke after a good rest, excited to explore this extraordinary country that is cited as the happiest in the world, and a lot more besides that make it utterly unique and compelling. Starting birding near our hotel we picked up Lineated Barbet, Scarlet Minivet, and Bronzed and Lesser Racket-tailed Drongos. However, the main target, Black-backed Forktail, took its time to reveal itself to all, but finally it did so.

Most of the birding on this day was while traveling along the main East-West road, where we found Asian Fairy Bluebirds, Plumbeous Redstart, White-throated and Black Bulbuls, attractive Silver-eared Mesias, Golden-fronted and Orange- bellied Leafbirds, Long-tailed Sibia and the beautiful Black-throated Sunbird. As we were going higher and higher in altitude we started to find ever more new species for the trip, as we had not yet been in the mountains. While we were having our lunch up on the hillside we noted a raptor coming towards us, which was a Black Eagle that flew right over us. After lunch, we headed up higher still, finding Gray Treepie, Black-throated Prinia, Striated Yuhina, White-throated Fantail, Yellow- cheeked Tit and Golden-throated Barbet by doing so.

Later on, we went to bird near Wamrong, where after a wait for a little while we found a nice forest patch, where we caught some feeding flocks with Crimson-breasted Woodpecker, Green-tailed Sunbird, Gray-hooded Warbler, Mountain Imperial Pigeon, Rufous Sibia (below), Streaked Spiderhunter, Yellow-breasted Greenfinch, Himalayan Cuckoo, and Bhutan Laughingthrush. Our best find of the afternoon though was one of the most highly-anticipated birds of the trip, Beautiful Nuthatch, which eventually made its way right to the edge of the road and was one of the overall tour highlight.

April 4: Narphung La to Lingmethang Road (BHUTAN). After a night camping, we headed up towards Lingmethang town, but to get there we needed to follow a winding mountain road, where we found Russet Sparrow, Dark-rumped and Blyth’s Swifts gliding just below us, a small feeding flock brought us Himalayan Cutia, Striated Laughingthrush, Gray-hooded, Ashy-throated, Chestnut-crowned and Black-faced Warblers, Long-tailed Minivet and the colorful Golden-breasted Fulvetta. Driving much further on, our next stop we picked up species like Chestnut-tailed Minla (Bar-throated Siva), Green-tailed Sunbird, Rusty-fronted Barwing, and Black- headed and Black-eared Shrike Babblers. As we needed to drive a long distance, we made few stops, but during one of these we found our first Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, White-capped Redstart, Chestnut-bellied Rock-Thrush, and Chestnut-crowned and White-throated Laughingthrushes.

It was soon time for lunch, where we enjoyed the local dish of Ema Datchi. After that we searched for trogons, and the playing of a call later resulted in a super male Ward’s Trogon perched only fifteen feet away. The rest of the afternoon was spent largely driving towards our next camp, but not without seeing a Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, that was spotted sitting beside a hive of Giant Bees, which they are associated with. Eventually, late in the day, we made it to our next camp for the night.

Bhutan is arguably the best country in the world to find Black-tailed Crake

April 5: Lingmethang and Yongkha, La Area (BHUTAN). On this day, we birded Yongkha La just above Lingmethang Town, where we actually saw a bunch of interesting species just along the road, one of which was a Black-tailed Crake (page before). We also had our first ice cream, and saw White- crested Laughingthrushes gathering on the top of a leafless tree. Rufescent Prinia, Oriental White-eye, Gray Treepie, Crested Bunting, Blue-throated Barbet, amazing views of Fire-breasted Flowerpecker (below), Orange-bellied Leafbird, Himalayan Bulbul and both perched and soaring Black Eagle were all also seen. Indeed, it was a good spell for raptors, with Himalayan Buzzard, Rufous-bellied Hawk and Mountain Hawk Eagle all recorded too.

In the afternoon, we birded the same valley but below our camp site, where we picked up some good stuff, like the cute and miniature Chestnut-headed Tesia; the same particular area also brought us Blue-headed Rock-Thrush, Ashy Bulbul, Large Cuckooshrike, Blue-throated Flycatcher, singing Great Barbet, Ultramarine Flycatcher and a very responsive Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler. Also, this afternoon we found some very friendly Nepal or Himalayan Gray Langurs, which were resting alongside the road. However, one of the big surprise species of the day, was hearing and seeing the monotypic Spotted Elachura that was not expected in this particular dry and open habitat.

April 6-7: Yongkha La and Phrumsengla National Park (BHUTAN). We spent two wonderful days at this beautiful camp site, situated very close to the surrounding birding areas. We birded up and down the main road that cuts across Phrumsengla National Park, and we also birded also near the camp where we saw, Scarlet Finch, Gray-headed Parrotbill, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Gray-headed Canary Flycatcher, Gray- headed Woodpecker, Asian Emerald Cuckoo, and a Common Cuckoo that called all night long; we had great looks of Rufous-chinned Laughingthrush which were working along the road there too. The park itself brought us some good species, like Yellow-cheeked, Green-backed and Black-throated Tits, White-throated Fantail, Yellow-bellied Fairy Fantail, Golden and Rufous-capped Babblers in a feeding flock at some 7500ft/2280m.

Below that, we also chanced on Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Chestnut-tailed Minla (Bar-throated Siva), had superb views of White-browed Scimitar Babbler in a patch of bamboo, Brownish-flanked Bush-Warbler, some flying Nepal House Martin and White-throated Needletail, Striated, Scaly, and Bhutan Laughingthrushes (below), an incessantly calling Large Hawk Cuckoo, as well as Speckled Wood Pigeon, Rufous-gorgeted Flycatcher, Large Niltava, Rusty-fronted Barwing, Whiskered and White-naped Yuhinas, and Golden-naped Finch. By the the end, we also managed good looks of a roadside Coral-billed Scimitar Babbler. Our stay at this wonderful location had certainly paid us some great dividends.

April 8: Yongkha La to Sengor (BHUTAN). After such a great time in the area, it was time to move on towards a new camp site. However, following breakfast and before departure we did some final birding in the area around Yongkha La, and found Black-headed Shrike-Babbler and our first Sultan Tit, in addition to Asian Emerald Dove, Scarlet Finch, and Golden-throated and Great Barbets. On our way up to Sengor, we saw a close Collared Owlet perched by the road. Driving further on, we found birds already familiar to us, like Golden Babbler, Gray-cheeked, Gray-hooded, Greenish and Black-faced Warblers (below). Continuing on higher still, another flock was found, this time with White-throated and Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantails, Maroon Oriole, and a few species that had only given poor views previously, like Black-faced and Striated Laughingthrushes, Gold-naped Finch, Streak- breasted Scimitar Babbler and an attractive Little Forktail feeding along the roadside beside a small waterfall. Also, today we drove to 10,000ft/3050m elevation, where our camp was set up at this altitude. While we enjoyed our lunch at this site, we had the chance to see White-collared Blackbird, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, Red-billed Chough and a noisy Spotted Nutcracker feeding on the ground at this new location.

After a quick rest, we went downhill a little with one singular aim, to get one of the most wanted birds of the tour: Satyr Tragopan. Once we get there, with no sign of this large red pheasant, we soon got a little frustrated. However, while we were searching for the tragopan, we saw other interesting species like Blue-capped Redstart, Striated, Whiskered and Rufous- vented Yuhinas, Chestnut-tailed Minla (Bar-throated Siva), and Hoary-throated Barwing. As it was approaching dusk, it felt like there was now no chance to get our target species, but at the very same time I saw our local guide L’ Dorji was calm and serene. It was soon evident why, as we spotted a Satyr Tragopan walking along the road, 30 feet away!

April 9: Sengor to Jakar (BHUTAN). After we spent our night at this high elevation campsite (but using an old building instead of a tent at Sengor), we hit the road for Jakar. During the day’s journey we ended up seeing about twenty different Blood Pheasants along the road. Due to many stops and scanning, we also spotted another three Satyr Tragopans during this journey too. Our first Himalayan snow was seen at 12,000ft/3660m elevation at Thrumsing La Pass, a quick stop that brought us Rufous-vented and Coal Tits (below), Red Crossbill and Himalayan White-browed Rosefinch in the local spruce forest. On the way down from the pass we also spotted both soaring Himalayan Buzzard and Steppe Eagle just above Ura village. After a while driving. we managed to reach Jakar one of the biggest towns on the eastern side of the country.

After a long period of camping, we were relieved to have a hotel with hot shower and so took a break in the middle of the day to enjoy some of these latest luxuries, before heading out birding again in the afternoon. This was centered around a cultural activity though, as we visited a 16th Century Dzong first and then checked a nearby riverside, which held Eurasian Hoopoe (below), Common and Green Sandpipers, Olive-backed Pipit, and Western Yellow Wagtail. However, the star species on the river was of course the enigmatic Ibisbill that gave us great looks, but was memorably mistaken for a pair of old shoes on occasion by one of the guests, which lent some humor to proceedings!

April 10: Jakar to Trongsa (BHUTAN). On this morning, the local guide, L’Dorji, led us up to a local monastery for another striking target bird, which paid off when we saw 8 different Himalayan Monals along the road there. On the way down from the monastery, we found Spot-winged Grosbeak, Red-headed Bullfinch, Rosy Pipit, Eurasian Magpie, Blue-fronted Redstart and Himalayan Beautiful Rosefinch. After a successful morning, we headed up towards Trongsa, our next destination, stopping in the patchy forest by Yotong La on the journey, which led us to see White-browed Fulvetta, Black-browed Tit, Green-tailed and Mrs. Gould’s Sunbirds, Rufous-winged Fulvetta, White-tailed Nuthatch, and Hoary-throated Barwing. On reaching Trongsa, we checked into another beautiful hotel, took lunch, and had a break before another afternoon visit to a local Dzong.

Following this cultural diversion, we were back in the field birding late in the afternoon, racking up Gray-headed Bullfinch, Blyth’s Leaf Warbler, Brownish Bush Warbler, Bhutan Laughingthrush, Green-backed Tit and both Plumbeous and White-capped Redstarts beside the river. As we didn’t have much daylight left we went back to hotel for a nice, hot shower and delicious dinner, knowing we were returning to camping the following day once more.

April 11: Trongsa to Tingtibi (BHUTAN). Today, we went towards Tingtibi, a small village south from where we were staying and another scenic valley for birding. We left our hotel right after breakfast, hoping for some good new birds on our way down. Our first stop wasn’t that far from Trongsa, where we saw Yellow-rumped Honeyguide, Bronzed Drongo, Rufous Sibia, Gray Treepie, Little Forktail, Bhutan and Black-faced Laughingthrushes (above), Yellow-bellied Fairy-Fantail and a very cooperative Pygmy Cupwing. At the next stop, Crested Bunting and Striated Prinia featured. As we descended, we checked every river, finally finding our first rotund Brown Dipper standing on a rock, and the same spot also brought us Slaty-backed Forktail and the attractive Gray-throated Babbler was also spotted. Much further down still, before it got dark, we also got more of the same species from before like Great, Blue-throated and Golden-throated Barbets, Tickell’s Leaf Warbler, and Ultramarine and Rufous-gorgeted Flycatchers, among others. Finally, we arrived in Tingtibi at dusk for another three nights under canvas. It was nice to see our old camping friends once again, and that they had (as usual) our campsite ready to go on arrival. So, after a delicious

Ema Datchi dish for dinner, we were rightly exhausted from driving along a long and winding road for much of the day, so went straight to bed.

April 12-14: Tingtibi Area (BHUTAN). I think we were a fortunate group to stay in this particular valley for three days, as you can access both species of lowland elevations, and subtropical forests higher up too from this well located base. In the lower valley, (not that far from our campsite) were Great and Rufous-necked Hornbills (below) feeding on one of the fruiting trees by the roadside, and we also found a few Crested Kingfishers along the Mangdue Chhu River, Wedge-tailed Green Pigeon further up near the Botanical Garden, where we also saw Ashy and White-throated Bulbuls, Blue Rock Thrush, Large Cuckooshrike, Great and Blue-throated Barbets, and also great views of Greater Necklaced Laughingthrush working pretty low to the ground. During our stay in this valley, we also visited the southern road as well, where we searched for some species that prefer areas where there is plentiful native bamboo. This led us to see White-hooded Babbler, Lesser Necklaced Laughingthrush, Yellow-bellied, Yellow-vented, and cute Rufous-faced Warblers, wonderful views of White-browed Scimitar Babbler, Chestnut-winged Cuckoo, White-browed Piculet, Blue-eared Barbet, White-rumped Munia and a nice pair of nesting Slaty-backed Forktail working back and forth along the road. On our last morning visit to this area, we had one final check for the rarest bird of the tour, White-bellied Heron, and finally spotted one initially flying that rested on a distant sand bar and was eventually admired within the Swarovski scope for all.

Our stay in the valley also gave us a chance to visit the upper road that leads towards Zhemgang village, which goes up to about 8200ft/2500m; and by working our way down from there, we located Red-headed Trogon, Little Pied Flycatcher, White-bellied Erpornis, Small and Rufous-bellied Niltavas, Striated and Whiskered Yuhinas, Chestnut-crowned Warbler, Fiery-breasted Flowerpecker, White-browed Scimitar-Babbler, and Blue-throated and Great Barbets. Birding along the same road in the lower valley allowed us some different species like Nepal Fulvetta, Red faced Liocichla, and Blue-winged Laughingthrush. It was also our pleasure to see once again some of the species from previous days like Barred Cuckoo-Dove, our first sighting in Bhutan of Long-tailed Broadbill, Lesser Yellownape, and a bunch of Pin-tailed and Wedge-tailed Green Pigeons, along with multiple good looks of Chestnut-bellied Nuthatch, Blyth’s Paradise- Flycatcher and we even saw Blue-bearded Beater multiple times sitting on the power lines. Mammal-wise, we saw a bunch of Golden Langurs (below) and a Himalayan Giant Squirrel eating pine nuts too.

April 15: Tingtibi to Probjikha Valley (BHUTAN). This day was spent mostly towards the Probjikha Valley, only making brief stops along the way. During these stops we mostly saw repeat species, like Black and Ashy Bulbuls, Blue-throated and Great Barbets, White-throated Kingfisher, Gray- bellied Cuckoo, Gray-headed Woodpecker, Green-billed Malkoha, Whistler’s Warbler and Blyth’s Shrike Babbler.

Further up, we reached Pele La Pass (11,000ft/3350m elevation), a high elevation site with lots of Rhododendron flowers where we saw Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Black-browed Tit (below), Rufous-breasted Accentor, Rufous-necked and Spotted Laughingthrushes. At the days end, we drove all the way down to our last campsite, which was set up in advance by our camp staff again in the Probjikha Valley. Unfortunately, like earlier up at the pass, was also rainy there too, so we couldn’t do any further birding on arrival.

April 16: Probjikha Valley to Punakha (BHUTAN). Having spent our last night camping, we bid farewell to our camp staff, who had been very well organized and made it very comfortable indeed. We left camp for Punakha, but before leaving the valley we saw Olive-backed Pipit, Russet Sparrow and a displaying Oriental Skylark in an open field. Next, we birded just below Pele La Pass, where we found Black-faced Laughingthrush, Gray-crested Tit, Brown Parrotbill, Dark-rumped Rosefinch, Rufous-breasted Accentor, Green- backed Tit and Green-tailed Sunbird. Himalayan Griffons soared above the pass too.

At the lower elevations towards Punakha, we did a little birding before lunch in our hotel within town, which yielded Yellow- bellied Flowerpecker, Gray Bushchat, Rufous Sibia, Gray-headed Canary-Flycatcher, Himalayan Buzzard, and Rufous-gorgeted and Taiga Flycatchers. Later in the afternoon, we birded along the Puna Tshang Chu River, where we picked up River Lapwing, Common Kingfisher, White-breasted Waterhen, White-browed Wagtail, Red-rumped Swallow and obtained super looks at a Brown Dipper bathing nearby.

April 17-18: Punakha Valley (BHUTAN). After almost two weeks birding by this point, we were largely looking for a handful of specialty species only. For this reason, we visited Jigme Dorji National Park. By birding within the broadleaved forests inside the park, we found Slaty-bellied Tesia, Speckled Piculet, Greater and Lesser Yellownapes, Gray-headed and Bay Woodpeckers, Small Niltava, got great looks of Nepal Fulvetta, Hair-crested Drongo, Great Barbet, Mountain Bulbul, White-throated Laughingthrush, Maroon Oriole, and also got stellar looks at Blue-winged Siva (Minla).

During our stay in the Punakha Valley, we also spent time birding along the Tashithang Road, which parallels the river. There, we found Kalij Pheasant (below), Scaly-breasted Munia, Barred Cuckoo Dove, River Lapwing, Brown Dipper, Ruddy and Common Shelducks, and Eurasian Wigeon. Also, near our hotel garden we were able to find Red-wattled Lapwing, Rusty-cheeked Scimitar Babbler, Black-tailed Crake and got great views of a couple of the scarce Slender-billed Oriole right above the hotel. We also got to sample the local butter tea and local liquor while staying there, at the request of the group!

April 19: Punakha to Thimphu (BHUTAN). On this day, we went towards Thimphu, with a few stops on the way. The first one was at the Botanical Garden not far from Punakha, where we connected with Eurasian Jay, multiple Brown Parrotbills, Whistler’s, Blyth’s Leaf and Chestnut- crowned Warblers, Gray-winged Blackbird, Brown Bullfinch and managed an awesome view of a Darjeeling Woodpecker (below) foraging right in front of us on the ground.

After such a successful morning, we went to have our lunch in one of the beautifully set-up restaurant in the mountains near Dochu La Pass. Right after lunch we went to the pass itself, where we enjoyed seeing a beautifully constructed temple and 108 Stupas at 10,500ft/3200m elevation. Scanning and playing the call of a Collared Owlet brought in a bunch of mobbing birds that included Fire-tailed Myzornis, Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, Rufous-vented and Whiskered Yuhinas, Rufous-vented Tit, Black-faced, White-throated and Spotted Laughingthrushes, Yellow-billed Blue Magpie, Dark-rumped Rosefinch, Rufous-breasted Accentor and White-browed Fulvetta.

For the rest of the afternoon, we birded along the Wang Chhu River, where we saw another couple of Ibisbills. We eventually made it to our hotel in Thimphu, where we also said goodbye to our friend and guide L’Dorji getting Thinley as a replacement for the remaining days.

April 20: Thimphu and Cheri Valley (BHUTAN). We spent the day near Thimphu and visited the Cheri Valley, which forms another entrance to Jigme Dorji National Park. In the park we got some great looks at Kalij Pheasant, White-collared and Gray-winged Blackbirds, Rufous-bellied Woodpecker, Mrs. Gould’s and Green-tailed Sunbirds, Speckled Wood-Pigeon and the minuscule Fire-capped Tit which gave us quality looks. Later, we went a bit higher up from where we started. Again, the recording of a Collared Owlet worked out well, as this time it brought in mobbing Rufous Sibia, Black-browed and Rufous-vented Tits, Gray-throated and Chestnut-crowned Warblers, Blyth’s and Tickell’s Leaf Warblers and Green Shrike Babbler. After a while trying in the area, we were rewarded with looks of Spotted Forktail, although unfortunately it showed just briefly and not to all. After lunch in the hotel, we headed up towards the sewage works, and saw Citrine, Gray and White Wagtails, another Ibisbill feeding along the shore, Common Sandpiper, Ruddy Shelduck and nice views of Brown-headed Gull.

April 21: Thimphu to Paro and Chele La (BHUTAN). We were headed towards Paro on this day, but first paused at Chele La Pass very early in the morning. As we wound our way up to the pass, we saw Blood and Kalij Pheasants and even had brief views of Satyr Tragopan again too. Up at the pass itself (at 12,000ft/3660m), we encountered Himalayan Bluetail, Himalayan White-browed and Dark-rumped Rosefinches, Eurasian Wren, Rufous-breasted and Alpine Accentors, Black-faced Laughingthrush, and we had great looks of both Spot-winged and White-winged Grosbeaks. We also spent some time birding not seeing anything new, but happy in observing repeat species like Himalayan Monal, Plain Mountain-Finch, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Blue-fronted Redstart, Rufous-vented and Gray-crested Tits and Hodgson’s Treecreeper again. Just before lunch, we birded the Kila Goenpa Monastery where only female monks are present, ands got some clear scope looks at Snow Pigeon. Other species in the area included, Green-backed Tit (page before), Rufous-vented Yuhina, Whistler’s, Buff-barred and Blyth’s Leaf Warblers. After lunch, Thinley took us to an area where species were attracted by a small waterhole, and found Yellow- billed Blue Magpie, Chestnut-crowned and Spotted Laughingthrushes (below), White-collared Blackbird and Rufous- breasted Accentor. Our final birding of the day, en-route to the hotel produced White Wagtail, Brown Dipper and yet another Ibisbill. Once at the hotel, we celebrated our final night as a full group with Bhutanese beer, and a look back on what had been a very successful transect through the beautiful Himalayan forests of Bhutan.

being one of the most impressive from this classic set of Himalayan birds

April 22: Cultural Extension near Paro (BHUTAN) and departure. On this, the final day, some visited the world famous Tiger’s Nest Monastery with the local guide, while others did some birding nearby. Both of these options were only a short distance from Paro. We took a short walk birding near the base of the temple steps, where patchy forest and boggy habitat occur. Amazingly, we found a Solitary Snipe there, which performed extremely well, in addition to some more familiar species like plentiful Brown Parrotbills, Kalij Pheasant, White-browed Fulvetta, White-throated Laughingthrush, Tickell’s and Blyth’s Leaf Warblers, Rufous Sibia, Green-backed Tit and our final looks at the gorgeous Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird. With some people leaving late that morning, we transferred them to the airport, before Jose re-joined the rest of the group at Tiger’s Nest Monastery for a fantastic close to the tour, followed by a final farewell dinner for the “remainers” at the hotel in Paro that night.

April 23: Departure (Flight from Paro to New Deli, India). After breakfast we left for Paro airport, from where we took flights out to New Delhi in India for onward international departures. Jose took a short walk around the Paro hotel grounds before breakfast, finding familiar birds like Green-backed Tit, Gray- backed Shrike, Black Drongo, Chestnut-crowned Laughingthrush (below), Common Cuckoo, White-capped Redstart, Russet Sparrow, and Blue-Whistling Thrush and others.

At the end of the trip, the most popular birds of the tour were Himalayan Monal, Beautiful Nuthatch, Darjeeling Woodpecker, Ibisbill, Wards Trogon and Blood Pheasant. Besides these, were others that got worthy mentions too, like Red-headed Trogon, Little Forktail, Mrs. Gould’s Sunbird, White-throated and Spotted Laughingthrushes, White- browed Fulvetta, Small Niltava and the attractive Rufous-bellied Woodpecker. Our species total for the tour was 420 species SEEN and another 6 species heard only.

BIRD LIST

Bird taxonomy follows Clements, J. F., T. S. Schulenberg, M. J. Iliff, D. Roberson, T. A. Fredericks, B. L. Sullivan, and C. L. Wood. 2017. The eBird/Clements checklist of birds of the world: v2017. Downloaded from http://www.birds.cornell.edu/clementschecklist/download/